However, Alden also put an extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. A touch more casual basically. Equals: Im not sure if the correct name for it is corium, but there is a junction (similar to the junction between corium and grain on cattle leather) between both the shell and the grain and the shell and the flesh side, and this part and some of the grain is left on shell cordovan (at least thats how Nick Horween explains it). Traditionally cordovan has not been that popular in the UK probably due to supply (and cost). A guide on how to care for cordovan shoes can be found here, In-depth How adhesives affect form and function in footwear, Guide Tanning and treatment methods of leather, https://shoegazing.com/2017/04/02/guide-care-of-cordovan/, https://stridewise.com/is-cordovan-leather/, https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/0*Sn-Siz4wX_IDteTp, Buying tip - Three highly interesting new shoemakers, Guide - How to prevent and remove mould from leather shoes, The tip - Reasons for heel slippage, and the solutions, The tip - Fix loose loafers with tongue pads, The tip - How to avoid and fix stains from hand sanitisers. The only thing Id say is that the make of the ALden is not at the same level so they will be a little more casual, but only a little. No I didnt have that issue with this Trunk one. Any idea if that actually works? Looking for suggestions and guidance. Same on the eyelets. I just buff them to a mirror shine with a section of tights (pantyhose) over the horse brush. I especially enjoy it punched and brogued. This week: shell cordovan shoes. You can easily buy all necessary equipment to care for Codovan leather from http://www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk. Its something I will look at correcting at some point, perhaps by stretching them a little. The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light. Just apply a bit of pressure to press the fibers back into place. Hi Jesper, For new shell cordovan shoes, you will want to establish a fixed flex-point. It would be hard to go wrong with a work boot with jeans Amit. You could wear most things, the versatility point was more about colours and materials things might look best with. It does vary, and it will darken as you wear them too. Someone made this comment above Alex. Not trying to be a snob! Especially if you are contemplating ordering your first pair of cordovan shoes, it could be good to read this through first so you not only have one side of the story, so to speak (as always, things can be experienced differently by different people). Color #8. Welcome to cordovan;-) Ive had the same Aldens as you for at least 15 years. Take care. For example, my Edward Green boots here could look good with both but theyd be a fairly smart, sleek look with denim. worsteds) compared with denim, cord or chinos (where I imagine the more comfortable home for cordovan, but not necessarily black shoes)? Brush it briskly before wearing. Hi simon thanks. Theres nothing wrong with the shoe, but it can be a bit of a shock if youre not expecting it. I have wanted a pair of cordovan tassel loafers for decades. Maybe stick to wearing the Alden with slightly thick socks and hope the toebox moulds to my feet? Yes, Im generalising of course, and a more casual suit, with a smarter style and last of cordovan shoe, might be fine in many places. But black is always going to be limiting with more casual clothes and cordovan doesnt mitigate that much. You need heat and pressure to do that, and the fat helps. And very marginally higher on the Alden tassel than the full strap too. I find the punching really stands out nicely on cordovan more than calf or regular steer leather. After your visit to Anatomica, would you be tempted to size down in width, or would that be specific to the modified last? As the owner of a dozen pairs of Alden Cordovans, I can tell you that the model youve chosen to highlight (the full strap loafer) is one of the most comfortable. Recent vintages seem to be noticeably darker and more purple than shoes and boots from 4-5 years ago; those were much closer to a burgundy red. All of them stand out a lot, and you wouldnt get anything like that on a smart shoe. and Im now interested in buying a pair of casual/dress boots. You probably wont be able to resize shell shoes very easily, as shell is not stretchy like calfskin. PS.Thanks for the lovely article. Ive only seen the exact style on sale in the US, yes, but that could change it depends what other Alden stockists decide to order. Thank you. If and when that eventually happens, Id probably end up with another pair of conservative shoes to make the next investment worth it. Later in the day I read this article. Hi what are those abrasions in the crease of the St Crispins? Loafers in France are usually either elongated in the Italian style, or chunky (boxy ?) Hello Simon. Alden struck me as rather hastily made, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with the sole edge not very well finished. In both cases the material is just one factor. Is this a valid concern, is there anything I can say to reassure them? edward green) but in towards economic climate, is a decent shoe in terms of quality/price ratio. I always have to in US sizes. One, I have a very wide foot, US EEE. Ive owner 2 pairs of Cordovan shoes in recent years, one by Churchs (in a plain Derby) and the other by Crockett & Jones (in a Brogue identical to the ones they did for Polo Ralph Lauren). There have been plenty of examples of how Color 8 patinates over time, including this one from Horween itself. Thanks. Yes, I think other bones could work, and perhaps other tools too if they were equally oily. The purpose of the coating and shellac is the same for all though, and it varies if people find it problematic with this treatment or not. Thanks! Over time, even with proper care, repeated creasing can cause leather to crack and rip. It is intriguing to me. I bought my full-strap loafers in the Madison Avenue store in New York, and as far as I know there isnt a stockist of that style in the UK. My Alden Norwegian bluchers feel substantially heavier than, say, calf Dovers from Edward Green. Any thought / insight would be much appreciated (and justified by the title of this article;). Hi Simon, somewhat related to Pauls question as well as your more recent post on wearing loafers with jeans, Ive recently become interested in trying black tassel loafers with jeans (dark, selvedge denim). I have the same question as the guy above:-) Just so that I understand you correctly Simon: the Alden loafers you are wearing are a size 9 US/D width? Maybe inside a humidor??? Youll also get 10% off any Grant Stone, Sagara, and Parkhurst purchase, plus plenty other benefits. Theres a couple of nice ones on the Barrie Im eyeing. Two weeks ago I bought the same cordovan boots as you did at Gabucci store. . Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. What about colored cream vs neutral cream? i think all i need is another 3-4mm wider. They were one of the best pieces of footwear I have ever worn; always smart and shiny in the the Cherry Black that you describe. : Obviously not leave them in direct sun for two months. In the US, at least, and speaking solely about each companys cordovan offer, their pricing is very similar. Also coating treated cordovan quite easily gets water stains and that type of thing, though not to the same extent as natural shell, and usually a bit easier to get back to a good looking state. Cut the Fat: Wear shell enough and you'll start to notice white streaks forming around the creases. Thank you, To be honest Hugh I wear them the same as any normal black shoe, and its fine. Im wondering would something like that be useful with wearing with shorts and say black/navy polos? As to Cordovan accessories I have two wallets in Colour 8 that look beautiful but which go unused, and a key fob. If you want to polish your Cordovan . I would really appreciate some help here. Been thinking about getting them from gabucci for a while now. Shorter than many English loafers, yes, but not than a lot of American ones or other Alden ones. Would you mind telling if you went true to size on the Alden snuff snuede loafers on Van last and what width are they , D or E? I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. And if that doesnt work, try a little cream. Yes thats right. There are post forwarding companies, if the extra cost and hustle are worth it (cheaper than travelling, and currently available). I dont have an email for them handy, but the owner has an insane shell collection and the store sells Alden including special makeups. Both were in a burgundy. Im somewhat surprised that youve gotten over this aspect yourself and somewhat wish I could follow suit. Theyd also be handy in warmer weather, with the PS overshirt in dark brown, white tee and navy BHL chinos for example (you can clearly see me trying to justify them). Would like to hear which last you find more comfortable. Thanks in advance. Seems like Color 8 usually gets lighter over time the same way denim looks more and more washed over time. Thank you for the high quality of your columns. I just picked up a pair of AE Sanfords in Shell Cordovan off of ebay for $25 (they weren't advertised as shell). The cordovan doesnt break down due to it, but other parts of the shoe can. Wear them lightly, then add another layer of protective cream or conditioner, and then let it absorb overnight. Speaking of black, I bought those EG loafers in black cordovan largely for its toughness, but it doesnt have the same variation as colour 8, and therefore charm. Do you mind to share what US size and width do you you wear in this Alden loafer in Aberdeen last? Yes youre right, those are the Kaans, I dont have any pictures of the Aldens. Id stick with the bigger size and try a half insole or tongue pad. I have been thinking of getting a pair of cordovan shoes to wear with semi-formal attire. Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/theelegantoxford/?hl=enFollow me on Facebook: https://m.facebook.com/theelegantoxford/ Every product is carefully selected by our editors. So, apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth. Truly, the two best things you can do for your shell footwear, is to brush it regularly, and store it with shoe trees between wears. Hi Simon, No worries. Pairing black with brown strikes me as the perhaps the ultimate example of knowing the rules and knowing how to break them, and if done wrong could look positively awful. We prefer to apply this with a finger as it gives more control of where the polish goes. Picture: Carmina (Top picture: Vcleat). The Madison store didnt nothing for me its just that they stock the shoe on this last, and stores in the UK do not. very interesting article, as always. As many Americans of my generation did (and still do) we wore tassel loafers with pin and chalk stripe suits in classic corporate settings. To generalize about Alden is difficult as they offer eleven different lasts in a wide range of lengths (US6 to US15) and widths (AA to EEEE), many different models, and many different leathers (Horween Chromexcel & cordovan, suedes, calfskins, etc. Hi Simon, Picture: PatrickBOOTH / StyleForum. I will confess (and so would my father) that we have many more fine pairs of shoes than one deserves. Sid and I have talked for a while about doing something. I recommend doing it after every wear, if you can. But I doubt Id want these any wider. You may be the only person on the net with good information on Cordovan! Hmm. Meaning it might never be available. Would also say there are lots of great casual combinations with black shoes. Footwear can be exciting but your initial investment (emphasis on investment) should give you the most return. Ive been wearing Alden cordovan shoes for thirty years now. Beautiful as well, but not as smart. Hi Simon, I think the classic penny from Alden is on the Van last, not Barrie. Ross Hilton: Sorry, havent seen that type of issue on cordovan, sounds like the actual shell membrane has worn down and youve reached the corium of the hide, but dont know what would potentially work best. I see youve mentioned they werent perfectly comfortable from the beginning. Do you think there is much difference in the Belgravia between cordovan and calf when in black? Which makes it a bit confusing that unlined cordovan loafers is quite common, a model that also some of its buyers cant wear during warmer days at all. Do you have any tips to reduce that sound ? I think its unlikely theyll stretch. Im unsure if I should size up have a size or go with a 7.5. Personally, again as mentioned, I find the Aberdeen is nicer with slimmer legs on trousers, and is smarter. It sounds like they maybe havent had shoe trees in them all the time as well? Would you not wear that with these jeans /similarly narrow trousers? Hi Simon First of all, cordovan is a rather stiff and thick material, it's not as flexible and pliable as most calf leathers which is most common to use for quality shoes. I just received my pair and Im not too sure how I feel about them. #1. Shell cordovan doesnt take dyes as easily as other leathers and is limited in its range of colors. 8 pairs of the color 8 from Alden.. but not these loafers. Crocodile is my favourite but can be fiercely expensive.but I dont feel the need to tell people when wearing them !!! That it fits in almost everywhere. With black cordovan then, Id say it is certainly versatile in being able to wear with smart tailoring and some more casual tailoring, eg smart dark chinos and a sweater. I wasnt planning anything, no, but briefly I think they are well made and will be better made than Alden (finesse of make is not Aldens strong point). However, I would think carefully about the style. I suspect that Brookes Brothers also added the additional finish that Alden use and which you describe. I also have a variety of vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial, Bostonian and other US brands purchased at almost bargain prices. I think that your review was not that favourable but I think that they have a fantastic shape and combination of materials and sole. And its a shade I prefer - you can see the difference in my Vass pair above. To make things more interesting I also recently got a size 7UK C&J suede Cavendish that actually fits comfortably. I think that shows how Alden from a make point of view is really mid-range or lower the expectations get rather inflated outside the US by the prices, and particularly the extra price of cordovan. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. J&M no longer makes anything worthwhile . Thank you! Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Yesterday morning I got an email about some Enzo Bonafe loafers in Colour 8 cordovan and I was wondering what is that? Only when there is a deeper scratch I apply some Saphir Renovateur on the spot (which with buffing gets applied over the whole shoe then). Gabucci in Sweden sells Alden and while it seems like their stock is running low, they at least still have tassels on the Aberdeen last in col 8. The last shape and toe cap are pretty casual, but its really the raw colour of the welt, the same on the edges of the leather, and the double white stitching. If it were you, what do you think you would have done? Finally, its worth noting that cordovan differs a lot depending on from who you purchase the shoes, and of course from which tannery the cordovan comes from. I have Aldens tassel loafers in their old hunter green suede. Hi Simon, I wear a 7.5 on my C&J Cavendish tassel loafers and am thinking of getting the Alden 684 pennyloafer in color 8 you have. Hi simon, a few questions about cordovan shoes: Trying to figure out, do I actually need a pair of cordovan shoes. I would have figured it to be more formal. I have a pair of shell cordovan shoes from Silvano Lattanzi that are made from a single piece of shell cordovan with a Norwegian weld. One thing thats certainly true, is that cordovan can be particularly uncomfortable if the shoe is too tight. I have been talked out of purchasing cordovan shoes by Alden and others because of two issues. Try to keep the rest a little smart too eg a white oxford and navy or mid-grey crewneck. Shell cordovan is a truly rare and unique material, and prices vary, though it hovers around $100 per square foot. These were mostly from vintage shops and eBay. Notice the lightening of the leather and . Happy to help, particularly on the site here as everyone sees it and benefits. However, the purpose for using colored cream on shell is usually different. What is the least formal outfit someone can wear with a pair of cordovan split toe chukka boots? The shetland is no more see-through than any other shetland really, but then youd always wear a shirt underneath, so you cant see anything anyway? Yes, absolutely. I prefer them in suede, but then thats probably subjective too. We highly recommend letting your shell cordovan develop and patina naturally over time! Prioritising comfort/space. Sorry. Ive been retired for a few years. Simon, it is a great post. Yes, I think makers that arent used to it will avoid it if they can. I have inherited a pair of Church cordovan brogues. Cookie Notice I went to my local shops selling alden loafers and the cordovan loafers look more purple/significantly less dark than any of the cordovan shoes in your pictures above Who should buy Crockett & Jones. I find this to be true. Ive used Reship a couple of times before. But Im afraid no, I dont think they would work with smarter trousers like flannels. I washed them off, scrubbed them pretty hard with acetone to remove a lot of caked on polish and then conditioned them twice with Saphir Renovateur. Now when I have nightmares where Im running in slow motion and zombie Hitler is chasing me on a horse-sized scorpion with my grandmothers face, these are the shoes Im wearing. Doesnt take dyes as easily as other leathers and is limited in its range of colors is! 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